Frida Refael, a Tel Aviv-based fashion designer known for her signature felted scarves and tonal dresses, showcases her collection at her boutique nestled on 42 Yona Hanavi St. On a sun-soaked winter’s day, Havurah’s Fashion Contributor, Ashley Finkel, sat down with Frida to discuss her background and artistic process while she admires her guests and rolls her tobacco.

Frida Refael photographed by Shiraz Grinbaum

Ashley Finkel: Can you tell me about your background and what led you to become a designer?

Frida Refael: I started embroidering as a child and began working with wool in my 20s, influenced by my father, a wool merchant, and my mother, a dressmaker. As an adult I pursued a career in theater direction and after 35 years in the industry, I returned to my roots when I went back to school to study psychodrama.

During my third year, I went out for a coffee, and a garden caught my eye. Behind it was an empty storefront and I fell in love with it. I chased the owner for weeks—he kept disappearing—but when he finally stopped, he let me know there would be construction in seven months. In the meantime, he said, “It’s a present for you.” I wasn’t sure what I’d do with it yet, but I ended up hosting felting workshops for small items like scarves and slippers.

In my final year of school, I worked on a project that led me to be on stage for the first time. I danced to music that I love, with a clothing rack on wheels that somehow ended up on stage. I moved with it, being spontaneous and free. It took a lot out of me, and I think that was the moment when everything clicked—my love for the store, my passion for texts and textiles, and working with natural materials. I went on to find a more permanent location for my store, and even today, I find myself moving clothing racks in and out of the store and dancing with them as I did in that first moment.

AF: How would you describe your style? What are some key elements in your design?

FR: I work with a core set of fabrics in all my designs—wool, gauze, pashmina, corduroy, and cotton—but I prefer to challenge myself by exploring them in new and unexpected ways. For example, my spinning wheel allows me to transform wool, which I then delicately layer on top of gauze, creating rich textures and depth. I will felt a hat over and over until it evolves into something entirely new, like a lampshade. There are 50 ways to be inspired, and I let them come to me. Also, anything I need, I make for others—hats, shirts, jackets—I need them all.

During my time in India, I started to further understand the connection between textiles and texts. That’s when I began adding calligraphy into my scarves, like the one over there with ‘ahava’ written on it. I will always incorporate the broken black-and-white color combination into my scarves. I like that there’s a strong contrast, but it’s still classic. I enjoy playing with color. Everything should be tonal, and not perfectly even. When you hand-dye your pieces, the colors turn out three-dimensional, not flat.

AF: Did your theater experience influence your style at all? Do you pay attention to trends?

FR: Since I’m coming from theater and not fashion, I’m free in my mind when it comes to shapes. I love when there's holes in fabric and unclean edges. I pay attention to fashion when it comes to me, but it doesn’t shape what I do. The inspiration circles within me—fabrics move into one another, and colors blend and contrast with each other.

AF: Have you noticed any changes in your business since the start of the war?

FR: Yes, there have been many dramatic changes since the start of the war. For over a year, fewer people have been visiting, fewer events have been happening, and the moods and priorities of the locals have shifted. It hasn’t just affected me, but businesses all over Tel Aviv as well. The weather is beautiful, the sun is shining—it’s the perfect time for a holiday, yet still, no one comes. Since times are still uncertain and we don’t know what the future holds, people are holding on to what they have. Really thinking about what they need. However, it hasn’t changed anything I do from a design standpoint. I create very unique pieces, hoping to create something that connects with your inner feelings.

“My work isn’t conventional, and I believe that’s what kept me alive. I thank everyone who visits and loves me. ”

AF: What are some aspects you love about your boutique?

FR: I love that I am two minutes from the beach and get a front-row seat to the shore’s fresh air. I am inspired by the original bauhaus architecture, the high ceilings, the remarkably tiled floors, and the charming balcony. I love being here and having the ability to create in the space. I can work with what I love and do what I want to do. I can feature other artists in my shop and give them a platform. Whatever I love, I put in here.

Boutique located at 42 Yona Hanavi St, Tel Aviv-Jaffa, Israel

AF: What piece of advice do you have, or mantra do you live by, for someone just starting out?

FR: Take things as they come, and remember that nothing is for nothing.

Refael in her shop photographed by Shiraz Grinbaum

Shop Frida Refael here or in person at the Boutique located at 42 Yona Hanavi St, Tel Aviv-Jaffa, Israel.

Follow Frida Refael on Instagram at @fridarefael

From Wool to Words: The Artistry of Frida Refael

Mark Podwal: Artist Yeshiva